![]() On the bikes, there is no OBD-II port, and therefore there is only an easy way to WRITE to the ECU. The major hangup in this whole process is that there is a very easy way to READ, WRITE, and datalog on the Subarus via the OBD-II port. Additionally, it means that I could release definitions for other people to use to tune their bikes. I want to go this route because I am already familiar with the ROMRaider package from my WRX. Also, I was reading on one forum that people have hacked a bunch of sportbike ECU's, and were using ROMRaider to edit them. Yeah, I don't have the money to get into the Woolich stuff. I think most of the paper trail is out there, it's just trying to put it all together. I have limited time to work on this, but eventually, I may figure it out myself and compile all of my information into one post. I come from the world of Subaru, where you buy a $160 cable, download ROMRaider, and start tuning.Īt any rate, I have bought what I believe to be everything needed to both flash to and read from the ECU, as well as a junk 600 ECU (has 1 or 2 broken pins) to practice with, but I was not able to find a junk, usable 750 ECU.Īnyways, does anyone here have any information on this? I am very interested. My intention is not to take away business from anyone who may be flashing/tuning K6/K7 750's (or 600's for that matter, I think it's the same physical ECU with different programming onboard), but rather I just want to be able to mess with the tuning myself. See #8 & #9 here.Has anyone here attempted to learn how to flash an ECU themselves (K6 750)? I started finding info online from years ago about it, but after the guy who was pioneering it lost his job (and started using ECU flashing as his moneymaker), the info just stopped happening. Note that by turning the anti-theft off, it will be much easier to steal the bike, not a huge issue with a race-only bike. But you'll have to find someone who's familiar with the details of flashing to do that. ![]() Everything else is immobilizer but beware of 32920-41G30 or 32920-41G80, which are the reduced power versions for French bikes.Īssuming that you have immobilizer parts, it's possible to flash the ECM to switch the theft checking from immobilizer to resistor (what the US/Can bikes use) or none. Next, the ECM is different for immobilizer and non-immobilizer. The immobilizer harness also has an additional Br/Y lead from the ECM to the big connector to the front harness. ![]() There are two variations of the wiring harness to match these differences. The immobilizer ignition switch has two four pin connectors while the US/Can switch has a single six pin connector (five positions used). i am also happy to provide proof that the bike does belong to me and i am looking for advice for a legitimate reason.įirst, it would be best if you confirmed that you had "matched" parts. I understand the concern some might have around giving information which can inevitably be used to disarm immobiliser systems on bikes that do not belong to them so i am happy to be contacted privately to discuss any possible solutions. I have read various threads about joining wires, fitting resistors etc but there is no clear indication as to whether this would cure my issue or not. so it would seem the ecu and key arent communicating as they should.Īs this is a drag bike, is there any way i can get around the immobiliser system? i still want to use the key to turn the bike on/off but i do not want to spend out the £300+ on another second hand key/ecu set unless i have no other options to try first. I have finally come to installing the loom and, now everything is connected, i am getting a fi code C42 (ignition switch signal) and the key light is flashing when the ignition is turned on. i purchased a frame, engine, ecu, ignition and a mountain of other parts from a friend who was selling up his spares etc from racing a turbo gsxr in SSB. New to the forum.Īfter building/racing oil cooled bike for over 8 years i decided to build a gsxr 1000 k5 drag bike. Hi, im kyle/pingu1000, from the isle of man.
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